Rather than reprint the whole plate I just cut out a hex of the one I was already using. Works great!


Rather than reprint the whole plate I just cut out a hex of the one I was already using. Works great!
I still need to print this, but I've been working on sort of a "remix" of this, which should allow me to make the "C" holder for the spool, spring loaded. There was just NO WAY I was going to use this on a daily basis if I had to unscrew the rollers every time I wanted to put a spool in/out.
So, I cut the top arm in half and made it able to use an M3 heatset for a pivot, pre-tensioned it closed 10-degrees, and then cut slot/M3 heatset holes for a 95mm spring steel rod (I still need to see how stiff it needs to be, but 2mm or 3mm should be good?). One end both bolts with washers will be tight, the other will be just a touch loose to allow the rod to pull/slide as it flexes...I'll let you know how it goes! (edited)
@SaturdayEngi_2465458 Yeah, I think once I get the correct diameter spring rods for good tension, I'll finalize this *and* likely remove the slots on the fixed ends and the middle mount. I think if you do NOT use concentric top/bottom walls, and use rectilinear at 45' it will help beef up the wheels and not be along concentric layer lines, but still have concentric walls on the outside parts? Maybe I just need to beef them up a little thicker too? Either way, I'll post my final as a remix of this when I finish.
@SaturdayEngi_2465458 I went ahead and mirrored the two arms. So you can spring load both if you want, but I suspect only the top one needs spring loaded, but this will let folks print it on 200x200 bed and then bolt the bottom one together. I'll revise my remix to add another heatset and screw to make each one "rigid" and not pivot soon.
Updated axle caps. These are stronger than the original and allow you to use wing nuts to tighten the wheels. Thumb nuts would work too and might look better