Great model thanks! Featured on our YouTube @ https://www.youtube.com/@PrintLapseVideos
@tabsche_2431824 Looks great! Love it. Yeah, it is a bit large to fit in the shooting bag, but most of the store bought ones are too. Enjoy it! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for sharing. Nice rifle rest that does what it is designed to do. It fits with a couple of inches to spare on the shooting benches at the range that I use. Based on @ag_1373507 comments, I added 2inches to the screw (4 walls, 15% cubic) that I printed for the rest. Printed with PETG.
After adjusting the height at the range, I started with 10 rounds 556, the rest moving back with the recoil. I then set the rest against the raised back edge of the shooting bench to keep the rest from moving. I shot another 50 rounds 556 then swapped rifles. Shot 30 rounds 38sp then 12 rounds 357mag. The screw failed on the recoil of the 12th round.
Looking at the picture of the failure, it occurred at the point that the hole for the wye shaft begins which coincidentally(not on purpose) was at the top of the locknut. The only support against lateral shear for the shaft hole in this area is the print infill. Above this point, the wye shaft supports the hole. Had this joint been lower within the body of the rifle rest, the screw probably would not fail at this joint.
I printed a taller locknut to support the joint above the top of the rest and 2 more tall screws at 4 walls and 25% honeycomb infill. Perhaps the simplest solution would be increased infill in the area of the joint. Life permitting, I'll get back to the range within the next few weeks to try the mods. (edited)
View one more comment
@SanfordPrime_562474
I sent a total 102 rounds downrange before the screw broke. I printed two more screws with honeycomb infill-didn't think about gyroid at the time.
I did have the sling under the rifle where the rifle sat on the wye and my left hand gripped the handguard/forearm behind the wye but not touching the wye. The rifles did not slide on the wye and the rest took some of the recoil but I don't know how much. The sling mounts were not in contact with the wye.
When I get back to the range, I am going to set the rest up with joint in the same position as the last trip and with slings between the rifle and the wye. The intent is to try to break the screw with the honey comb infill. I'll post the results here when I get them.
Cheers!
@Trekking_927764 Spare parts are good to have, especially when away from the 3D printer. Hoping the raised locknut works in your situation to avoid needing to print any more screws. Anxiously waiting for results. Thank you for taking the time to provide this valuable feedback!
This is awesome. I love it a lot; however, can you give me a three-segment version so I can use it as a fidget wand?
@Seahanna_95130 The 3-Segment version is now in the set of files. Check it out, when you print it be sure to add a 'Make' and let me know how it goes, since I haven't had a chance to print it yet. (I'm assuming it should print as easy as the rest).
@ma_rcin20_2008498 Nice! The 3-section one too! I never printed that one myself... I feel like I should though now...
@Ivan_1679089 oh no, dont hurt yourself... it's supposed to be a 'fun' toy! Nice print though, thank you for sharing it!
this model got me suspended from school 10/10
@samisanerd_1383784 Silly Sam... it's not for printing at or taking to school... lol.
@3DimensionalThings That's good to know! Hopefully you get some good use out of it, I've used mine plenty! Thanks for sharing.
Not too hard to print. No brims or supports were needed for my MK4. Assembly was not too difficult though the smallest clips are just ridiculously small. I actually sneezed them off my desk at one point.
Unfortunately, it functions for 2-3 uses, then it gets harder and harder to set the trap without the risk of it snapping on you. PLA is not the best choice for longevity. That said, this is a novelty and everyone is going to know exactly what it is when looking at it.
All in all, I enjoyed the print, I may try reprinting the trigger arms in another material like PETG since that appears to be where the wear is occurring that is making it difficult to latch it safely.
@prisoner06_150706 Heck yeah, people will certainly know what it is! Somehow yours doesn't look like a toy like mine did. I understand what you mean with the small clips, mine eventually popped themselves off and I never reinstalled them, still functions fine and they're probably un-necessary. A stronger material for the trigger arms is probably a good choice if you have it laying around.
Love it! Great Job @prisoner06_150706
This is wonderful my daughter cracked one of the tabs holding in the light globe so I had to add brown duct tape, but it looks wonderful with wood PLA, and clear PLA.
@SeaSchnell_587827 That's Awesome! Honestly I think it adds character with the band of brown duct tape.
@ss7156 That torch is Suhweeet! Thanks for sharing it!
I'd complain that I'd wish I'd found this model ten 5-gallon buckets of acorns ago, but since the ball-pit that remains can still be measured in acres, I'm just going to throw myself at your feet in gratitude.
@JC_470671 You're a funny person JC! Thank you for the compliment!
How much (volumetrically) can it hold before it needs to be emptied? How do you think it would scale - either to increase capacity or to accomidate larger material?
You'd be able to significantly cut down on the labor with the wire if you sized to the bends aleady in the wire, but this would drastically distort the geometry and possibly cause stability problems at the center - presumably any central support spoke would need to allow for (some) movement in at least one, likely two dimensions (orthagonal and in-plane). Alternating supported-unsupported would be another approach... but both solutions complicate emptying, and its hard to tell if the increased surface area / volume capacity would compensate for the addition of an anchor to the spring mechanism....
Though I might be overthinking it. Some dental floss looped around each would introduce rotational support amongst the wires.... Hmmm. (edited)
@JC_470671 I just measured the inside, it's approximately 115 cubic inches volume. I would imagine that filling it about 1/2 capacity would be acceptable, and probably more like the true capacity of it (maybe up to 2/3?).
The size that I made the model was based on the largest part (the framework) and my printer's usable volume. The other parts just kind of fell into place after that and it ended up what it is.
Scaling, maybe not with a simple all over scale-up, but with some parts modified for scale I would think would work best. For instance, scaling the hubs at the end of the wire would make the wires fit very loosely.
One thing I would recommend though, for what sounds like borderline commercial use LOL, would be to change the design so that it can use steel shoulder screws. I collected a bunch of acorns this fall with it and it worked well to the very end, but I did notice some additional resistance from the screw/hub interface. I'll have to tear it apart real quick to see how much wear on the plastic parts there was...
The wires, in the size I had were impressively rigid, and I wouldn't suggest making them stiffer. If scaled up though, additional supports may be needed? Wire wise, the coat hangers worked good but they were a 'pliable' metal which initially bent well to fit the form, but if bent to far while in use would also retain their shape. If I were to do it again I'd research some springier material...
Thank you for the interest/questions/suggestions, really got me thinking about it again!