Works great and prints out well in PETG. Finally no more splash
Printed out perfect like always, dropped right into tray and stops those splashes!
So I bassicaly need to order the machined top in SS and the inserts in the recommended PEEk/ultem etc? I can do the PC on my voron I believe. Do I have that right? out of curiosity what's the cost roughly?
@Citywrecker_189768 cheapest is the standard top in stainless steel, not the inserts. It's $70-300 if you're only doing one, exact cost depends on where you are and where you get it made. There are a few group buys going/planned in the Gaggiuino discord server that can dramatically lower the cost per piece.
Yes, you can do PC on the Voron.
@Loogle Ahh, okay I didn't understand there was an option for inserts vs non. Ill check out one of the group buys. Thanks again!
ps...thanks for all your great work!
I looked this up with zero expectation to find it , this so specific, THANK YOU FOR SHARING will print later
Printed perfectly and is a great great design. Fits perfectly with the kit from diy-efi.
Printed perfectly with my ASA Settings( 8 hours). Nice fitment and it´s looking great.
Not sure if this question even makes sense...but...can this be used with hardware scales mod? I saw you designed the mount that's used with the standard drip tray. best of both worlds?
@Citywrecker_189768 No, it can't, but this design is based on the low-profile drip tray from the scales mod (and of course you can use that one with the scales). (edited)
@Loogle Ahhh, okay didn't see there was a low profile tray there. Thank you!
This is such a great system, so much easier to handle than PG glands. Also thanks for the hint to the updated G2E part. Printed with 3DE PBT+ Pirate Black. (edited)
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@jmedlin Thank you very much! Would be a good idea to link it on the PUG page as a mount option for other switchwire (or Enderwire) owners. As they only show mounts for the other voron printers.
@DomingoAleja_1208384 I totally forgot about this, here you go https://www.printables.com/model/1055974-voron-switchwire-xz-umbilical-pug-mount/files
Hello Loogle, sorry to bother you but I would like to know if it's possible to make the Wide LM model without the "wing attach for gaggia portafilter" please ? with a flat bottom, in order to use the funnel with other portafilter with tamping station. Thank you very much ! :)
@Sacatabl_762525 The problem is that without attaching to the portafilter the grounds tend to push it up when tamping so it ends up not working.
Maybe if it were metal it'd be heavy enough that wouldn't be an issue, but as a 3d print I added the attachment features because they help it work properly.
@Loogle
Ho thanks I didn't thought about it ! I will print it with the attachments then, many thank for your reply and for the design !
Thanks for sharing. This is a great concept. I printed it in Bambu Basic red PETG.
Do you use any glue to hold the dial in place? I am beginning to wonder if my grinder has different tolerances or geometry for the groove. I've printed another pointer design that's supposed to slot into the groove, but those and yours always fall out instead of locking in.
Your design that goes across and uses both grooves did stay on, but even that pops out with the slightest accidental nudge. No matter how hard I push it into the grooves on the side, it pops out.
@yashrg_95289 hey, it's certainly possible the geometry on your grinder is different. Who knows, maybe white paint is a different thickenss :) If you have a set of calipers and can get the depth and height of the slot I'm willing to check vs mine and see if the model needs adjusting.
I have the 078s Black. I printed both the Mini and Mini Flat with basic eSun black PLA+ and 0.2 nozzle. It fits well with a press fit into the side of the machine (I tried sliding it in and it dropped out after some time).
Sorry, I don't have a picture to load, I have switched it to one with only one indicator as I don't really need fancy vernier scale.
Thanks for the original model.
Can I print it in TPU?
@Wenen_1303295 no idea, haven't tried. Probably depends on the TPU used.
Unfortunately this does not match the pump mount for the Gaggia Classic (pre-pro). If I have time I will try to make an adapter that would go in between this mount and the Gaggia Classic bracket.
@bigwizardmag_1634603 don't bother. This pump mount is specifically optimized for the Pro/Evo/E24 variants, and, while this design has already been ported back to the Classic, there are other simpler options for it due to the different mount and tubing arrangements.
@Loogle I could not find anything back ported. The best I could find is a stretcged sheet the pump sits in, but it's not secure. I think you design is much better, and I would assume it would be quieter.
Do you have a photo of the rear? Are you still using the top rear exhaust or do you have a plate? Would be awesome if you can add a version to run an additional cable like Beacon probe
@jrdnlc_106881 I'm going through the rear exhaust (small notch for the cable).
STEP is provided, feel free to modify
This worked out absolutely perfect once I got the length of the cable chain dialed in. I'm converting my V2 250 into a toolchanger, but the Z cable chain was running into the CAN+filament entry for the tools. This mod was the perfect solution.
Printed the standard height STL with black eSun ABS+ and a 5mm brim.
Yes, I'm sure the water touching the printed ABS will poison me and make me want to kick puppies. But until then, I get to enjoy this perfectly dimensioned part. Great fit on a 2023 GCEP! (edited)
If any one was wondering, 5/32 imperial drill bits work well too.
Prints are great and instructions/procedures are very clear! This accomplished what I hoped--while the wand still gets warm (as Loogle's documentation explains), there is no more instant scalding and milk no longer bakes onto the steam tip after steaming. Thanks as always, Loogle!
When drilling, be patient! Don't be like me and melt your jig.
Nice work, thanks... Would you consider also creating a wider version, that also covers/hides the cables? Personally I never liked running those cable out the my machine, but as that (currently) can't be avoided, I'd at least like them to be properly covered. I wouldn't mind loosing (direct) access to the USB port in the process. If I need to access it, I can alway open the cover of the enclosure.