Looks great, works great. Cheers!
Looks good, fits well. Printed in Bambu PETG-CF (Indigo Blue and Black). Thanks for sharing!
Check your file downloads - seems like a lot of duplicates
@davewilson thanks - Prusa glitched up on the upload.
It is now fixed.
I'm going to do a lip like you did, but instead of making separate pieces I'm going to make the lip part of the original part and use PLA for the support with zero clearance. This should make for a perfect surface since PLA won't stick to the petg. That's the beauty of having multi head machines.
This way I won't need the heat inserts and all the separate parts. You could even print the lip a different color for accent (again ready to do with multi head machine) like you did, but for me I'll be fine with 1.
Thanks for the idea. Stuff like this sometimes you can't see until you build it. So I'm grateful to learn from people like yourself who already built it.
As a side note for something like this that you'll likely never take apart you could skip the heat inserts all together and just print the tap drill size for an m5x.8 screw and just let the screw make the threads in the plastic as you screw it in. It'll be plenty strong and there's no worry of the threads wearing out since your not likely going to be taking it apart and there is no load on the threads in normal operation.
Thanks again.
View 3 more comments
@IBNobody_123251 SolidWorks user, so unfortunately that won't help. SolidWorks has some tools to help but after many years dealing with STL's from customers I've gotten good enough to work with them as is because sometimes those tools do more harm then good. It works just not ideal.
As far as acrylic vs. Lexan the website says plexiglass, which is a form of acrylic, typically PMMA.
PC and Lexan are in an entirely different category and cost much more. Lexan in particular is just a trademarked type of PC invented by GE. I'd be surprised if it was either of these since the kit came from China. But you never know
Thanks again.
@Brian_506099 Maybe I'm mistaken. I could have sworn that in one of his comments he mentioned it was PC, but I can't find it now.
If you are doing hobbyist stuff, nothing stops you from firing up the free version of F360 just to convert your STLs. It's the best free converter I've used.
Thank you for the model. It is a simple, but nice addition for the Sumo Enclosure. I used them everywhere a hex bolt was going to contact the acrylic panel, to provide a little larger surface for holding. As you can see in the photo, I also used them on four other bolts that went into each side that were not through the acrylic. This was to give a consistent look. Yes, they were a tight fit, so I created a small tool to fully seat the washer onto the bolt. It is pictured in the other picture. I simply created it in the slicer with basic shapes and a negative space cylinder. I sized it to have a loose fit over the threads. A light blow from a small hammer made short work of it. I did have to come up with my own smaller washer for those bolts in the bottom front corner where they fit into the recess of the front frame. I also used them on the bolts for the top four corners. This was because I am using the corner protectors that were supplied by @3DSourcerer. They were also created in the slicer. They are just a hair larger than the bolt head and about 0.65 mm thick. Because I printed them in Galaxy Black instead of a contrasting color, they are a little hard to see in the photo of the top.
Any chance you could make a version of this that hinges 155mm from its original point? I have spools on the side in mounted F-boxes & I think it would be sick to 270 around those instead of the frame. Also, just curious, why didn’t you make it have two hinges, it’s original and then another at your modified hinge point? I’m going keep trying to make this but boy am I terrible at it, haha. Love this though, so cool. I’m thinking the outer hinge would be a fully printed one, but again, I’m just envisioning, not able to make it yet.
All you had to do is use those collet clips on the original sensor blocks - at least for the "PTFE tubes popping out the back" issue :-).
View 2 more comments
@Balu What collet clip did you print, specifically?
@SuperJudge_85727 I just used the "original" from E3Ds Crazy Collet Clips https://www.printables.com/make/1261695
Exactly what I was looking for. I really like the original design, but the top and bottom where a bit too fragile, so this is perfect.
Hi,
I like your stronger remix of the container.
Is it possible to get smaller height options?
These make an already quiet machine even better!
Feet work great at lowering the noise coming out of my print closet. However moving these suckers is a PAIN IN THE ASS. Those pads are sticky as hell! I did add a layer of superglue when I applied the pads to the print. It really keeps the pad from falling off the print if the printer got pushed around.
Model bardzo łatwo i szybko się wydrukował. Ja przykręciłem do drewna za pomocą Spax 2,5mm
THANK YOU! With this clamp and the nozzle wrench the nozzle change experience is similar to using the Revo6 hotend on a MK3. Absolutely fantastic!
Very happy with this its an awesome idea when combined with https://www.printables.com/model/623570-nextruder-nozzle-wrench-v2
I made the wrench snap fit into the block here https://www.printables.com/model/731476-nextruder-nozzle-wrench-to-fit-ibnobodys-heatblock
