@DWA_295274 no problem. All credit for the "cuteness" goes to the original designer in. Your print looks great!
I printed it, and it came out really well! I had some issues on the arms, but I believe it has to do with the calibration of the printer in the new update! Printed it again, with a profile that had NOT been calibrated, and it came out REALLY good.
Sadly, no pics, as they got scooped up by some little people before I had a chance. I left them on the counter to let the glue set up, and when I came back 10 minutes later, they were gone! Oh well, will print more, and will modify this post with some pics.
@MiSc_162692 yes, I noticed some weirdness in the mesh when I scaled it up, but it printed fine for me.
Thank you for the successful and constantly revised model! I could feel the grooves when threading the filament - but so far the splitter is working perfectly!
With the medium/standard setting, the PCMs screw in easily and fit tightly.
@Thinkdifferent Thank you for the nice review and for posting your make! Looks great!
Really good engineering, this is why I love 3D Printing with talented makers sharing their content. Now I just need a Bambulab printer 🙂. Printed in addnorth black petg economy, prusa mini 0.15 structure profile with really good result. Loved the support part and how you cleverly solved it (edited)
@Manderberg_114172 Awesome! You're helping to answer that age-old question, "What came first, the printer or the splitter?" :-)
Using silk rainbow PLA. Had to remember to print them sequentially to make the color flow correctly. Also used organic supports for cover, worked great!
Thanks for your work. Could be a little better if only the top 0.2mm was a different part. That would save filament changes. Otherwise great. (edited)
@ValeriyProklo_267668 Thanks for sharing your make. It looks nice! I made the inlay ring 0.8 mm to make sure the stand color would not bleed through. Now that I have more experience with the X1C, I typically use 0.4 or 0.6 mm and find that is enough for many colors, especially darker ones. If you don't want to edit the Fusion 360 file, you could cut the stand in the slicer to trim off some of the side with the inlay ring. You could trim 0.6 mm off and that would leave the ring at 0.2 mm and get you down to 2 filament changes.
@EdJohnson Okay, that makes sense. I didn't realize that bleed was a consideration. I got away with just one layer of color on some prints, but if you found that more works better I'm fine with wasting a few grams in purging :)
I printed a couple of these to see how they would turn out and they look great. Can't wait to build something that needs brackets.
Green transparent PETG. I did the .6 this first print. It was a very easy print, I didn't have any trouble getting it apart. It's quite loose of course. I'm going to try a tighter hinge next print and I'm going to not use a brim I think. It printed well with the brim but it was a bit of a pain to get off and I don't think it's necessary probably since there's a big surface area on the bottom.
I printed it as a little candy bowl to take to work for St. Patrick's.
Thank you for uploading! (edited)
@Vaelkyrie_1546715 Thanks for the review and posting your make. it looks great!
They look great. I'm glad you were able to make it work even if the parameters didn't cooperate. Are the Makerbot spools thinner? It looks like you needed a thicker outside ring to act as a spacer.
@EdJohnson Thanks. Yeah, they are taller and thinner, maybe half the thickness. Without increasing the outer rings thickness they hit the bottom of the holder and wouldn't spin.
This looks excellent! Great improvements! I confess this was my first attempt at dovetails and it wasn't very good. I've learned a lot since then but haven't had time to go back and update them all. Thank you so much!
@tjdesign Thanks, but you're giving me too much credit and cutting yourself too short. The tweaks I made were pretty minor. I've been using Fusion for quite a while and still am learning new techniques all the time. For me, the key to making dovetail joints is to design them with zero clearance and sharp points. Then I go back and offset the faces and add small fillets equally to both sides of the joint to create the clearance. I do this as one of the last steps in my design. That way, it's easy to create different versions with different clearance values.