the 850x400 acrylic panel works with which?

?Lower Base without Lower Riser - splitted
?Lower Base with Lower Riser - splitted

Great job. I will try to add HULA to it. Might get a mix with https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/verschiedene/pied-flsun-v400 :-)

Hi, does someone know if this will fit in the Super Racer?

From other planet

I have a request- could you make one such that the M5 hole can be used with an M5 heatset. I spun out my gear on one of my spindles and a heat-set might prevent it in the future.

Thanks

The severe overhang is problematic when trying to print the spindle with any high strength/high heat material. Will post a make if I can ever get it to finish cleanly. (edited)

Notes on building the Diplomator Awesome spool rewinder...

General notes:
* This requires a significant amount of dimensional accuracy. Make sure your printer is dimensionally accurate and flow is calibrated.
* 608ZZ bearings will work just fine- they have the same dimensions as 608-2RS.
* Expect all of these components to fit very close, especially the axles into the bearings.
It's a smart idea to color code or keep components separate so you don't lose them in the mix, particularly the spacers.
* The thumbscrews are nice but you don't need them- the design is based around a specific screw set for a tight friction fit. You can scale them up as well, I got them to work with my screws at 108%. I threw in a tiny bit of super glue because while the fit was tight, it wasn't "Drive them in with a hammer" tight like some of the videos I have seen putting this together. This is probably the fiddliest part.

Main body / Drivetrain notes:
* The instructions show the 128m axle going straight through the bearings. Due to the notch on the axle for the worm gear, you need to push through- I would recommend leaving the bearing closest to the worm gear off, putting the axle through that side and angling it so you can slip the worm gear into position, then push the axle through the two bearings.
* You may wish to put just a tiny amount of superglue right under the notch where the axle and the worm gear join. This will ensure the worm gear does not slip somehow.

Sled/Carriage construction notes:
* Make sure you get the threaded inserts into the sled, axle, and filament guide before assembling. An M3*4*5 (M3, 4mm length, 5mm OD) threaded insert is wholly sufficient here for every insert on the sled/carriage construction.
* Make sure you are careful with the 47mm axle when putting the threaded insert in- I'd use some insulated tweezers to keep the insert in place until it's starting to push in and don't push too hard.
* When you go to put together the sled and carriage and put it on the winder, make sure those two pieces are together first and the sled moves freely.
* The 47mm axle relies on not being inserted all of the way into the bottom bearing (Unless I used the wrong spacers when building the sled)- you may find a little play here but I found it worked best being installed a little more than halfway into the bottom bearing, giving me just enough room to install the linear gear and lock ring. If you find you have space after installing the linear gear and lock ring, you can use a hammer (BE GENTLE) to tap the excess shaft into the sled structure.
* Make sure the linear gear, when put on the carriage and sled, is able to freely move the sled back and forth during rotations, otherwise you are in for a bad time. Do at least a couple rotations with the gear in place before you tighten it down.
* You may find a little bit of binding on the lower row of teeth, specifically the tooth closest to the engine side. Sandpaper is your friend here.

Side gears / Drivetrain:
* M3*4*5 (M3, 4mm length, 5mm OD) threaded inserts are wholly sufficient here.
Be careful installing the threaded inserts, this can make getting everything together hell as it's a tight friction fit.
* I found it easiest to get the bearing caps on by slipping the tab diagonally into the slot where it goes, then twisting it slowly to where it fits in fully. Once in place I pushed it down the rest of the way with a 2mm hex driver, but whatever you want to push it down works.

Spindle & Spindlenut:
* You can use a 6200-ZZ bearing here- they have the same dimensions as a 6200-2RS.
It could have been how I printed it, but the gear on this assembly was a little tight as far as receiving the M5 screw. It took more force than anticipated, just be cautious when working it through.

Motor assembly:
* This is pretty straightforward if you know how to solder, but getting all of the components secured can be fiddly. Depending on the DC motor controller you get the size may be slightly off (Particularly where the switch for forward/off/reverse goes) and make construction a little frustrating. Worst to worst you can simply put the whole switch assembly on the outside and glue the back of it to the case.

Printed white parts in BL PLA Matte and the black and red parts in Prusament PETG. Unwinder axel modified to use same axel bearings as winder axel. Spool brake by Psycho Shaft added as well. White TPU brake shoe bonded on with ShoeGoo instead of super glue. Board is 3/4” Sandeply, 12”x24” that has been stained and coated with Polycryl.

Great model - 1/2" to 3/4". Thank you

ASA
N: 0,4
Layer: 0,2
Perimeters: 4

Perfect! Thanks for sharing!

Thank you for this respooler! I didn't see any list of the metal components needed (screws, inserts, et al.) that will be needed for assembly. If you would please, post a list of the items needed, as I am really looking forward to building this. Thank you once again! (edited)

Very useful model. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for this design, it exactly what I was looking for.

I think the controller fan is sized for a 35mm fan not a 40mm.

Hi there... It's very nice your work. Is the higher feet required for the 0.2 for the display to fit?