Will this same bracket work on the 3 V3 SE model?
Printed without any problems using PLA. I used the v2 model since I did not have any heat inserts available. Nonetheless, the printer works perfectly with this modification.
Having the sensor away from the frame allows me to squeeze the printer in a smaller enclosure.
Thanks for sharing this! 🙏
Printed well, without issue and no supports needed following the same recommended settings.
I used 16% sparse infill with 3D Honeycombs.
I think this is a pretty good underrated solution for side-mounting the spool (granted you don't have other upgrades taking the same position/slot), and it allows you to still use the original parts instead of completely leaving them aside.
The only edit I made was removing the logo and any embossing from the bottom-facing side to have better surface area for adhesive rubber pads (usually for furniture feet), any generic brand will do.
EDIT: I forgot to mention, if you're printing this on untuned KE tolerances, you may want to increase nut diameter by 1mm (edited)
Worked flawlessly on my Ender 3 V3 SE. Had to buy a couple of 5mm x 15mm screws besides the nuts because the original ones are too short.
Does this work with the unicorn quick swap system? I use the E3D x Crealty unicorn obxidian nozzle (yes, that's a thing, it's great. its $70 on Creality's amazon page, and it can do 42mm³/s with a 0.4mm diameter. I can link it if anyone wants it) and want to use this extruder so I can actually use the full speed of the nozzle without it skipping and i don't want to risk getting the kit and having it not work with my setup.
@RyanFisher3dDesigns Yeah it should work for you, it really shouldnt make a difference. If there happens to be any sort of gap just stick in a small piece of PTFE tube. Honestly that is something that is already in the directions too.. I think youll be totally fine with that setup!
@AustinWolt_1104655 thanks for the help :) I really appreciate it
Ever sense I've installed the filament runout sensor from henlor then the modified BMG extruder with the runout sensor I haven't gone back. But now here I am interested in a different extruder. Any chance a filament runout sensor model could be made or the stp files uploaded to allow for modifications? I haven't learned how to use stl software to make modifications. My experience is in CAD software.
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@TacoTommy_1751116 That was exactly my question as well
@ChristopherV_1756048 Same here.... Can't wait to transform my old Orbiter v2 + Runout Sensor into the Cyclops with integrated filament sensor!
Made this on my Creality k1. Printed it in 3 pieces in overture black abs, overture diamond purple abs, and overture clear polycarbonate, then the pieces were glued together. It works great for airflow compared to the Creality original. (edited)
there's a easy way to fix the homing issue with the Knomi V2 and K1 series open your sensorless.cfg and find Home X, Home Y, and Home Z macros in each one find G28 and change to G28.1 it's becuase knomi_v2.cfg changes the G28 macro to G28.1 and calls for it and without it klipper will throw errors hope this helps
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@lorderply_1656233 what orientation and supports did you use?
im looking to print these in abs but i dunno the settings and the video is mildly unhelpful
@Boricstream5_1265912 I did them face down (logo on the bottom) with the default tree support setting in Orca.
for anyone wondering what hardware is needed for these, you need 4x M4x20 button head screws to install the rollers and 4x M5x5 grub screws to hold the rods in place. (edited)
Awesome quick little project. Great looking cover. I printed using Polymaker ASA. Now I just need my K1 Max to produce better prints.
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@D3vilDesign Thank you and the D3vil team for all the contributions, I installed the XY joints lastnight on my K1 Max...I used the stock pulleys for now and will be waiting to experiment with pulleys when you release the 8mm belt.
@marucci87_824378 bro thank u .. please be advised that I'll update the Joints as I have fixed few minor issues and one of the guyz discovered that the actual one I pushed out was not the same one I have recently... sorry for that stay tuned for rhe new joints
Completely removes the rattling, both when printing and when closing the door. However, the part was too thick initially, so I had to remove several layers with sandpaper to be able to use it.
UPD: I shouldn't have sanded it, because after some use the door started rattling again. Re-printed the part, didn't sand it this time, and everything is fine now. (edited)
Does it work for K1 Max too?
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@D3vilDesign
Your model seems too short - only a few milimeters - for the k1 max. So the door can't close. :(
@capman_2010727 thanks for sharing this ... now I know 🙏🙏🙏
Works like a charm. I couldn't resist printing in classic colors. Thanks!
@Ghettoblasta super cool ... 🤩
Great model!
I used a remix of this and remixed it further to retain the stock PTFE wiper.
https://www.printables.com/model/452240-bambu-x1p1p-nozzle-wiper-brushptfe
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@D3vilDesign The PTFE sits a bit lower than the stock one, as it now doesn't have as much springiness as before.
I think it is still a little bit too long, as the PTFE already has a few scrapes from the nozzle. But the shorter I make it the less springy it will get and it will lose some of its wiping function the further it is from the nozzle.
I still have to find the right balance, I think.
@Arough_296617 yeah though you might face such issue ... ... please keep us updated if u amange to get a balance.... for now I can't complain from the brush ... been serving me well
Nice, awesome model, I printed it out and was using it for a while, then just to try it out, I tried wrapping this copper wire around the bolt, and have been using it problem free for a a few months. Anyway, just for interest.
one question was cad on shap3r ?
@stephbreakin_206544 yes ... will upload the STEP file later
Will this work with the clicky probe mod?
@Chefisto_24558 I don't see any reason why not if you can lower your klicky down by 8mm maybe or how you see fit ,, I will be fitting the klicky prob in the coming weeks after changing my rails , and will update the post if I faced any issue, but it shouldn't be an issue , just make sure the Z hight is properly adjusted , and if you can lower the klicky down a bit. Please let me know if u facedany issues. Would be happy to assist
@D3vilDesign copy that.. thankyou very much. Will give you and update..
I have added the Voron Tap probe with no issues at all. If you use this method for probing you can do away with modified height klicky or euclid probes and the z end stop can go to the bin. Can now add a large nozzle cleaner and purge bucket of your choice. (edited)
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I am using 48V for the A and B with LDO motors (LDO-42STH48-2504MAC(F)), Current is set to 2A. Acceleration 10000 and speed up to 700 mm/s with the tap. That is enough for me. Do you go any faster or use higher acceleration ? I find the need to reduce the speed on the outer walls for a nice finish anyway.
@aju3169_190475 I just fitted my 2504AC from LDO .. but still running 24V , movement at 700mms printing max at 500mms with Rapido with higher temperature, Acceleration at 15k defult .. 6k outer wall ... outer walls speed 100 to 180mms depends on the model. Still I would never use the Voron Tap ever again .
She has been good so i got here some Prada's now where is my he.ad?💀😏 Printed in PA12-CF 5 wall loops, 15% sparse infil, top shell thickness 1.2mm, bottom shell thickness 1.2mm this all @ 0.12 Orca profile. Thanks for making this mod available! (edited)
@BobDebouwer_2011058 thank you for the Kind words bro ... should I make a CNC one 😁
Very nice mod, printed perfectly fine in Overture Diamond Purple ABS on my k1.
Also recommend https://www.printables.com/model/897176-creality-k1-prada-left-front-foot-with-geared-270 for the 270deg hinges (edited)
@sklbsz_1695350 glad the hinges abs shoe worked for you as well did you use my profile for abs or your own? Just wondering if you used mine if there was any input to make it better
@sklbsz_1695350 could you not have just flipped the bottom hinge ?